Monthly Archives: July 2012
I’m thinking it would be best to finish framing in the counters so we know what we need in SS (stainless steel), before we go buying it. It may be worth checking on Reliable hardware for new price on thinner stock SS as thin stuff may be cut able at work. It’d be worth checking if even by phone to compare (707) 545-7822. The salvage yard is probably cheaper, but you never know and thinner is easier to work mostly. We went to a restaurant in TC had all SS table tops, thin gauge folded, looked good, I checked it out close. We don’t need heavy gauge, just metal on ply wood and thinner is cheaper generally. Equivalent of flashing but in SS would be enough to meet the code if glued down as it’s tough. Bit of a trick cutting the sink hole to be sure, but abrasive wheels should do it, followed by a jig saw for the wood, and the sink lip will cover it.
On paneling, if we can’t get it free on craislist, it may be worth checking Mount Storm (707) 838-3177, they’re a wholesale building supply in Windsor, open weekdays, cash or check, no credit cards. Thin luan ply should be relatively cheap, equivalent to door skin but full size 4×8′. We can paint it to meet code for clean ability.
We need to finish the stuff inside the walls so we can seal it, electric is in, the gas lines need to be re routed and cut/threaded for the water heater and sealed with tape or pipe compound, tight. I’m thinking the water system can be inside under the counters with a possible exception on the hand sink to main drain, not sure there. I’ll look into that. We should insulate the walls after that, those ceiling tiles would be good, don’t know if they’re available any more, worth asking. Else some straight pink insulation (hate that stuff, itches), then plastic or more tar paper we have. Then the paneling to seal it in.
I think it would be best to finish the walls top to bottom before we add the counters so it’s sealed and cleanable. Maybe the floor too. Then mount the cabinets removable with screws. Mark the floor for studs, panel, mark the panels for studs low, floor it, then you know where to secure the counters. The counters where the stove mounts need to be thicker to support it unless we use the 2 burner without the oven. Enough for now, we’ll see how it really turns out.
So you paint some more, I’ll cut the wood we bought last time to finish the counter Pside, work on the benches and table. We need to discuss how we plan to meet the code. Thought, I could lower the sink some to match the other side or more to allow for the back splash guard, couple screws and 4 cuts to shorten the legs. It would make it a bit low but doable, $15 for a stool at the Asian store. Lets talk about it. I need to set up the router bench and cut a bunch of inside radius stock for everywhere with the new cheap router bit. I should get a matching outside radius bit when we’re at the salvage yard to fit the table bench backs so it fits together (for the bed, hush), $3 is cheap. The water tanks need to be stowed with additional braces to keep them in place and holes cut in the floor to match for plumbing. Mount the outside lights, you could do that, green ground to the screw, black and white with wire nuts, easy, I’ll help if you need it. Cut a hole and make a small door for the main electric cord. That will finish the electric system.
The gas line still needs Teflon tape and the tee installed for the water heater. We’ll need to shorten one pipe at the mercantile to fit, drill a bigger hole in the stud, add a few 90s (RS) and later the heater ($$). All this needs doing before we insulate and panel it in. Look for paneling on craigslist.
4th of July!
7/3/2012 4th tomorow
blood and sweat was given in installing the straps for the fresh/graywater tanks today…next we’ll start with the actual plumbing that will attach to the tanks once they’re set in the straps…see the tank in the distance? yay!