Next you’ll be working with latex (hope that’s what you got, can’t take back a color mix), it’s water soluble before it dries, so no more thinner fumes, much nicer to work with. You have to clean it before it dries, carry a wet rag and clean your brush and tools right away or put it in water. When it dries it’s a hard rubber, takes TSP (trisodium phoshate, a heavy detergent) to clean it off, and you have to soak it. Nicer than thinner but dries your skin seriously, wear gloves. I don’t have any here, may need to get some, but only if mistakes are made. Clean it before it dries with water.
So we need 20 bolts, nuts, washers and 16 lock washers. Checked a piece of plumbing strap, looks like a 1/4″ tight, we’ll bring some. Measured a 2x, we’ll need 2″ bolts, a little long but room for the strap, washer, lock and nut should be right.
Just had a thought, may be cool to get 4 thumb screws and 4 wing nuts for the strap openings, costs more, probably better to just use bolts and keep a couple wrenches aboard, better torque with a wrench and these tanks are heavy when full (120 lbs.). Put them up empty, then fill the fresh. Reminds me, we need to build in a tap to fill the fresh, standard 3/4 hose size mounted outside, before the check valve and capped (to keep it clean) to fill it. Be cool to have a shut off valve below that so you could use hose pressure instead of the pump and not fill the tank. This is good, and should fit the code, shut off (then fill tap), screen, the one way check valve to prevent backwash, up to the fresh water supply. The pump needs to go in after the check valve or BE the check valve, as it has 2 in it, depending on the type of pump. We may need to valve it off separately, we’ll see. As they have a lot of good valves at ReStore we can work it out. It’s looking like we’ll need to go from a 1/2″ system  to a standard 3/4″ hose, then back again to fit the sinks. It’ll be a challenge, hope for RS parts.

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