So I talked to Kenny today, he said we could legally use the switch connectors to attach both wires to allow the wiring in series. I was concerned about that. So we won’t need so many twist ties, but the ones we have will be useful for the lights. Also, I asked Greg and Bob what side the plug should be on, both said the driver side as that’s the way they set up the RV parks. Also, Greg said he has a door on the driver side of his RV with the cord in it that goes across to the other side where his fuse box is. We could rig it that way with the main under the floor, Kenny suggested using a grey PVC (electric is grey, semiconductive) pipe to shield it from road flack. We won’t need the expensive plug if we do it that way. We can just cut a square hole aft driver side and a small door boxed in under the hand sink to stash the cord. Two elbows on the grey pipe to bring the cable up from under the floor to the breaker panel. Also, we can use the breakers we have, just don’t hook up the big amp ones. As long as you are only drawing less than forty, it’s OK.. He said the breakers only connect to the black power lines from the main to the black hot lines then return to the white neutrals, also, if you’re using 220 volts, join the 2 in lines so if the breaker throws, they both shut off. Not sure about the setup on that but could figure it out. We shouldn’t need that, just FYI. Also we need to ground all the metal boxes so if there is a loose wire it doesn’t hold a charge, circuit breaker blows. There should be a threaded hole in the boxes to attach the ground lead, we’ll need the appropriate screws to fit that or tie them to the stud screws, but it needs to be grounded. That’s important. So the parts we have should be enough to do most of the electric, a grey plastic tube and 2 elbows from RS, build a small outside door and cabinet, we have that, just a cheap tube to go under the floor, done deal. We have the electric circuit supplies. Plumbing is next.